• Rough up the recessed area where the numbers go by sanding it with a fine grit sandpaper.
• Clean the area with a little lacquer thinner.
• Remove the backing from the numbers and liberally put super glue in the recessed area.
• Put a few drops of super glue on the backs of the numbers.
• Press the numbers into the recessed area.
• After the number has set (about 24 hrs.) you can remove the protective shield on the front of the brass plate, which is there to prevent oxidation and scratches.

• Apply SP-80 cleaner directly on rubber parts. Start on one side of the dumbbell.
• Work into rubber with a rag by wiping down all areas liberally.
• Leave a light coat of cleaner to soak into rubber on one side of the dumbbell. Then go to the other side and begin the same procedures 1 and 2.
• Wipe the first clean side of extra SP-80 cleaner.
• This procedure should be done as normal maintenance, maybe every 30-60 days depending on the size of the club.
• After wiping off all the SP-80 cleaner, then apply the SP-80 "black beauty coat"(black label). Follow the same steps 1 thru 4.

• Rough up the recessed area where the numbers go by sanding it with a fine grit sandpaper.
• Clean the area with a little lacquer thinner.
• Remove the backing from the numbers and liberally put super glue in the recessed area.
• Put a few drops of super glue on the backs of the numbers.
• Press the numbers into the recessed area.
• After the number has set (about 24 hrs.) you can remove the protective shield on the front of the brass plate, which is there to prevent oxidation and scratches.
  

1. Loosen the bolt with the breaker bar and the 3/8" socket. Be sure to have someone else holding the handle while you try to loosen the bolt. It is important to wrap the handle with a piece of leather to protect the knurling. Use a large pipe wrench wrapped around the leather to hold the handle.
2. The bolt should loosen easily. If the bolt does not loosen, the Locktite will need to be heated. This is done by using a small torch or cigarette lighter to heat the bolt. Direct fire on the outside of the bolt will heat it and melt the Locktite making it easy to remove the bolt. The heating of the bolt may need to be done a couple of times until you heat the bolt enough to break it free from the Locktite. Eventually, the bolt will be free of locktite and easily turn.
3. Once the bolt is out, remove the plates. Soak the handles and bolts in a degreaser or paint thinner.
4. Remove the bolts and allow to dry completely.
5. Press the numbers into the recessed area.
6. Remove the handles and use an air hose to blow out any remaining foreign matter or dirt that may be in the threads. Let them dry thoroughly.
7. Use #2 Locktite (blue color, runs about $70.00 per bottle).
   DO NOT USE SUBSTITUTES. THEY WILL NOT WORK!
8. Apply #2 Locktite into the threads and tighten the bolt. You can use an air gun, but the final tightening has to be done with a torque wrench. Set the torque wrench at 125 ft. pounds. Use the breaker bar for the other end to hold it and torque the other side.

1. Wipe the bar dry of perspiration.
2. Clean the bars with a degreaser or paint thinner.
3. Use a soft tooth brush to clean out the knurled area and remove all the dirt from the knurling. Be sure to dry the bar thoroughly. If you can use an air hose to get all the degreaser and dirt out of the knurling, that would be best.
4. As an option, you can use a non-abrasive chrome polish to give the bars a shiny look. This is not really necessary, but it will add to the appearance of the bars until the next person uses it.

1. Use a soft toothbrush to clean the dirt out of the knurling. If you can use an air hose to get all the oil and dirt out of the knurling, that would be best.
2. Once the bar is clean, apply a generous amount of "3-in-1" oil to the inside bushing area where the sleeve meets the bar on both sleeves. Work the oil into the bushing and wipe clean. Then apply a generous amount of oil to the end of the bar, thru the hole in the chrome cap. Tip the bar up so the oil runs down the bar into the inside bushing. Let it stand, slanted, for about 2-3 hours. Wipe off excess oil and do the other end the same way.
3. Apply a thin oil coat to the rest of the bar, let the bar soak overnight.
4. The next morning, wipe the bar clean and remove any excess oil so that the bar is dry.
   If you do this about every 30 days your bars will look good and perform well.

1. Use a soft toothbrush to clean the dirt out of the knurling. If you can use an air hose to get all the oil and dirt out of the knurling, that would be best.
2. Once the bar is clean, apply a generous amount of "3-in-1" oil or WD40 to the inside bushing area where the sleeve meets the bar on both sleeves. Work the oil into the bushing and wipe clean. Then apply a generous amount of oil to the end of the bar, through the hole in the chrome cap. Tip the bar up so the oil runs down the bar into the inside bushing. Let it stand, slanted, for about 2-3 hours. Wipe off excess oil and do the other end the same way.
3. Apply a thin oil coat to the rest of the bar. Let the bar soak overnight. The next morning, wipe the bar clean and remove any excess oil so that the bar is dry.

1. Two flat washers.
2. One small snap ring.
3. One flat washer.
4. One large snap ring.
5. One chrome end cap.*
   

1. Hammer (for end cap)
2. Small Snap Rng Plier (to open)
3. Large Snap Ring Plier (to close)
4. Eye protection

• Always lift on the appropriate surface. A minimum of 1 1/2 inch plywood mounted under 1/2 inch rubber mat is recommended. A "lifting platform" will greatly assist in shock absorption.
• Always use collars that utilize a pressure ring and a spinlock feature that "locks" the plates tightly against the inside sleeve of the bar.
• Always use the next heaviest bumper plate(if available) when increasing the weight of the barbell. Never overload the bar with iron plates. The excess stress on the bumper plates can lead to their premature failure. For example loading a 10 kg steel plate onto a 10 kg bumper plate. The 10 kg bumper plate now has to absorb the entire 20 kg load!
• Control the descent of the barbell to the platfom as done in competition. Forcefully "slamming" the bar down can potentially damage the bar and plates.

CQUIK

Olympic Quick Collars

IT'S EASY AS 1-2-3

Simply slide the patented Collar onto your bar.	Collar automatically locks into position safely securing your plates.	To release, simply squeexe as shown, push the collar slightly toward the weights, then slide the collar off.